BLAND AND BASIC OR BOLD AND BALLSY?

fashionable and fit: gaultier runs down the runway. (style.com)

paris - blaynistas, you be the judge. for some reason the last collection i saw from hermes bored me to tears (it wasn't by gaultier though, woman designer, but i forget who). i was fully prepared to slag off this years collection by the legendary jean paul gaultier, but something about these supple, sultry belted leather jackets won't let me. the 57 look collection did have some painfully basic moments, but the highlights above really made the collection worth a second look for me. at the end of the day, as nicole phelps said in her review on style.com, this collection isn't making fashion news as others did in paris this season, but it's solid enough to hold its own.

MENSWEAR SHOWS: MY WRAP UP

paris & milan - the menswear shows have wrapped up. but i wanted to catch up on a few other notable collections i liked and didn't like. n joy. zb

CALVIN KLINE - this show was a perfect example, to me of how despite the trends and the times - each label has a dna that it must keep. i am tempted to call their latest collection a snore, but that would be rash. ultimately, it was classic calvin kline: clean lines, modern shapes, cool tones. i'm sure buyers and connoisseurs of the brand were happy with it. in future, i'll learn to look for my thrills from other labels, like galliano's below.

LOUIS VUITTON - overall, the collection felt a bit gimmicky - a feeling played up by the use of helmets and umbrellas on the models. it's clear that this season the vuitton man is a working man - a graphic designer in europe perhaps? whatever his vocation he makes money. how else to explain his penchant for well tailored and well made pants, jackets and sweaters. as it turns out - that's exactly what the designers were thinking: sort of. the collection was loosely based on a french film about hoods who dress up in order to rob from a swanky casino. as such references to money and a "fast getaway" can be found throughout the collection. if i could steal one thing though: it would be the dynamic new gray damier bags which were trotted down the runway in a variety of styles.

Yves Saint Laurent - i'm really starting to like stefano pilati. the ysl designer is proving that he is at once classic and modern - a combination which can be awkward at best to pull of. yet, his mens collection showed him combining both traits effortlessly. the results were clothes that are relaxed yet urbane. i loved the slim pants and the relaxed pants. the velvet smoking jackets were simply brilliant as were the more modern ones in electric colors.

VIKTOR & ROLF - the glasses might seem comical, but there was nothing funny about viktor & rolf's latest collection. instead everything about it felt slightly antique and largely fanciful. according to one media review, the inspiration behind the show was the main character from the book, around the world in eighty days. the strikingly similar looks between the models played up that effect. you got the sense that the same guy was suiting up for different adventures. loved it.

GALLIANO - so what would henry viii be wearing if he lived in modern day england? john galliano has the answer. the king, it seems, would held on to the voluminous silhouettes and sumptuous fabrics that comprised of his costumes of old. except - he would have been much sexier. at first blush, the collection which included jester hats, macabre make up, and ass-less underwear should not be wearable. but it is! the pieces are very wearable, very fashion forward, and again - just incredibly sexy. far and away, this was one of my favorite menswear collections this season. see my favorite pieces from the collection, above.

FALL 2008 MENSWEAR SHOWS CONTINUE

milan - and another one....milan is still on and popping with a fresh slate of haute designers who showed a combination of sizzling - and luke warm - collections. go to mensstyle.com to see the the shows in their entirety, stay right here to see my take on my favorite shows as well as photos of my favorite pieces from each.


Moschino - excited doesn't even begin to describe my reaction to the moschino collection. i literally sighed out loud as i saw look after electric look glide down the runway. tight fits, loud patterns, louder colors, sumptuous fabrics - this collection is not for the faint of heart. instead it's for a confident, brash fit, youthful, sexy, handsome young man - if only at heart. just how i like them. and boy how i loved this. (oh and did i mention how much i loved their cocky use of accessories. glasses and gloves, especially on men can sound dodgy in theory but looked flawless on the moschino runway)

Dell'Acqua - Alessandro Dell'Acqua is one of those designers i keep hearing about, but have never checked out. i finally did with his menswear collection. my reaction? impressive. sexy. slightly dull. what excited me however, were his thick, chunky knit sweaters paired over slim cut trousers, above.
Cavalli - for any other designer, this would have been dull. but for cavalii, who is known and loved for over-the-topness - this tame mens collection was actually exciting. it was simple, sedate and of course had a few rock and roll touches. (think leopard spotted and fur coats)
Gucci - am.i.on.crack!? that was the initial question i asked myself as i saw slide after slide of dark haired, dark eyed boys with eye liner, drowsy faces and psychedelic prints. it wasn't drugs. but it was a foray into frida gianini idealized russian bad boys that had my head swimming. i can't say i liked the collection. in fact i won't. but what i will say is that it was a bold statement in menswear.
Ferre - it's safe to say that all eyes were on ferre - or rather nilsson this season. the house of gianfranco ferre who passed away last year,, was taken over by lars nilsson who presented his firs collection as designer of the label this season. instead of a traditional show, he opted for an intimate presentation - all the better to show off what is a very rich, discreet and detailed collection. the collection employed classic bespoke touches like expert tailoring, and a variety of relaxed and structured cuts. it had a retro '30s vibe in the choice of prints/textiles while other looks had a decidedly modern flavor. job well done, but overall, not entirely moving.

YSL SAYS N-O TO MENSWEAR SHOW

one haute dude. (cinematheque.fr)

milan - ever the trendsetter, stephano pilati , designer of yves saint laurent, has decided to forgo a traditional mens show. instead, ysl will use a video installation to showcase it's documentary. the designer has lined up british talent like director, sarah chatfield and chris sweney of colonel blimp in london to create the film. it stars british actor, simon woods, who will be wearing pieces from the men's collection through out the film. look for it to debut on the Internet world wide by the end of this week. we will have it here on the blayreport as well!

MENKES: NOT MAD OVER MCQUEEN!

i may have loved it. but one important critic for the international herald tribute hated it! (mensstyle.com)

milan - suzy menkes is not known for mincing words, and the fashion critic did not disapoint when it came to the recent alexander mcqueen show. although i , and several bloggers/writers raved about the show , she had a drastically different take. here's an excerpt from her scathing review. ouch! (p.s. the diss on my school was so uneccesary though...)

menkes is a brilliant writer who thought mcqueen's collection was anything but...(fashion.about.com)

"Despite his wondrous Indian-inspired fabric and decoration, Alexander McQueen did not seem so in touch with fashion as he took a sartorial journey from Bangalore to Cochin and Katmandu.

It was not a wandering Indian hippie trail, more a precise appropriation of images of the Subcontinent: a silvered fringe added to the sweep of a shawl-collared cardigan, paisley embroidery on the hem of a tailored coat, an ethnic pattern shawl wrapping the shoulders under a high-crown hat.

The only problem with that travelogue is that the designer, for all the studied ethnic intricacy, never moved his own design ethic forward. Known as a modern master, McQueen had tailoring as sharp as a shirt's silver-edged hem. But when the double layers of a jacket were draped like a sari or a vest and a coat broke out in a leopard print, it all looked like a Saint Martins College of Art project - albeit done with consummate skill, imagination and taste.

Stand-out pieces appeared when the trail went up to the Himalayas, inspiring yeti-thick coats and vests. McQueen clearly felt the need to push his menswear forward. But sometimes the easiest journey a designer takes is to add a bag with ethnic embroidery and the hardest is to move forward inside the head."

MILANS MENSWEAR SHOWS: IT'S POPPIN' ! NO FRONTIN'

milan - blaynistas. so can i confess a guilty pleasure? (which doesn't make me feel too guilty!) mens wear! from my boyfriend's v-neck white tees, to american apparel's pastel briefs, to burberry trenches - i think mens clothing (good mens clothing) is absolutely to die for. luckily for me the menswear shows have started. i suggest you check out mensstyle.com to see comprehensive reviews and photos of the shows. but if you want just the juicy bits - look below. i have highlighted my favorite shows and included a photo of the best pieces from each.

ALEXANDER MCQEEN -- i almost stopped. but thank gawd for stamina. after watching a few duds come out in the first part of the show - mcqueen treated us to an avalanche of spectacular looks in the latter half. from ancient looking ponchos (over ancient looking models) to fun, furry hats (which i know will be all the rage next season) this show was everything you love about mcqueen and more.
EMPORIO ARMANI -- this had to be one long show. too long. whatever positive or negative things one felt, must have melted from the mind around the 86th look (there were 97 looks total). i can't go through this collection - and kudos the the reporters who did. but what i will reference is the first half that was chocful of ski clothing. i get it mr. armani. we are going skiing. but did the point have to be made so emphatically with ski's, goggles, and caps. all that was missing was snow and a cup of hot chocolate. and something about how the models strutted down the catwalk made you feel like there was disco music being piped through their ears.....

PRADA - this is something you'll barely hear about prada's new collection: it's very wearable. and it's total genius. prada has put little touches - which amount more to stying than structure - that have created huge buzz about her line. you will come to see the tutus, but trust me, you will stay for the well tailored suits in rich hues. a 10 all around. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - this felt very underwhelming at points (simple, sophisticated suits we've seen 1000 times before.) but then, there were flashes of brilliance in structure and styling above that broke the monotony.
BOTTEGA VENETA -- can we PLEASE get into how FLY this collection was!? and i mean FLY in all caps, bolded, underscored, with swarovsky crystals. this ish was dope! from a day at the construction site to an evening at the opera bottega had you covered - and covered well. every look was simply orgasmic and complete. it's worth your 15 minutes to go online and look at the complete slideshow. then come back to the blayreport - ofcourse.

FEAST YOUR EYES ON THIS: PRADA. MENS. FALL. 2008.

(thanks to bryanboy.com for these pics!)

milan - ....and this isn't even all. i am rushing because i have an appointment. but trust when i return i will post as many photos as i can find. what do you think of this male collection with vivid feminine touches (i.e. ultra tailored, effeminate models, and of course TUTUS!) i think it is brilliant. ones again, miucia prada proves that she designs for her mind. but will it sell? let's talk in a little bit. you. me. and more photos from the mens shows in milan. it's a date!