fashion + beauty + insider interviews + est 2006

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

FYI - HOW THE PRO'S REVIEWED C.KANE & L. BARTLEY

wgsn, is "the worlds leading provider of online intelligence for the style industry," so i thought their review of luella bartley and christopher kane should be of some importance. below is a word for word copy of how the reviewed the two shows i reviewed yesterday. read, compare, enjoy!
international press is still talking about this collection and the two signature looks above symbolize why. (source: style.com)


LUELLA: The ballroom at London's auspicious Claridge's hotel was rocking, as rock band Sister heralded Luella Bartley's return to the London schedule. And a triumphant return it was, as the designer presented her spring/summer collection and celebrated the opening of her first London store on Brook Street.

Citing comic books as her influence for the season, the designer told WGSN backstage: "It's about this weird geeky girl, but really sexy and feminine. I just wanted it to have that kooky weirdness. It was very much Thora Birch in Ghost World. There were very pretty flower prints but done in poppy, cartoony colours with all the plastic, sequins and dip-dyes to create quite an individual feeling."

The signature girly rock vibe was out in spades, tempered by geeky glasses and butter-wouldn't-melt ruffled dresses in ditsy micro-florals, sometimes featuring those ombréd dip-dye hems or bands of bright sequins. The collection's cartoon-inspired looks came through as Batman motifs woven into a jacquard on a boxy jacket and tailored pantsuit.

Standout numbers included the layered crisp accordion pleat dresses with punky zips running down the back, a sharp silver pantsuit and signature blazers teamed with skinny jodhpurs. And as for the season's must-have bags, watch for big, shiny, zipped patent totes, clear plastic Kelly-style bags and covetable mini snakeskin satchels.

above are signature ruffled looks critics, and wgsn, loved. (source: style.com)

CHRISTOPHER KANE: Christopher Kane's meteoric rise to become the hottest ticket on the London schedule drew a huge expectant audience to his spring/summer showing where, despite the theft of half his collection last week, the designer proved he is one the most important talents to come out of London in recent years.

The collection could not have been more different from his acclaimed medieval-inspired autumn/winter showing, as he loosened up his signature silhouettes into light airy feminine layers. Despite citing Stephen King horror stories as an influence, the new mood had a soft romance in the dropping hemlines and tiers of billowy chiffon ruffles, which came in powdered shades of primrose, blush and faux-nude tints.

There was an almost Edwardian influence in the languid bustle-backs or the fishtail hemlines of butter-soft leather ra-ra skirts. Pattern came through in the childlike Swarovski geometrics trimming cropped cashmere knits, or in the snakeskin prints, which came as zip-trimmed chiffon biker jackets and as leather trims etching wispy frills.


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